How Do I Know If My F150 Has A 36 Gallon Tank?

If you’re not directed on how to determine this, it can become a herculean task to carry out. The purpose of this article is to give you the direction you need to know if your F150 has a 36 Gallon tank — which is a response to How Do I Know If My F150 Has A 36 Gallon Tank?

Let’s proceed.

How Do I Know If My F150 Has A 36 Gallon Tank?

Crawl right underneath it, and compare the tank sizes. If there’s a significant amount of tank forward of the banding that holds it on, it is a 36-gallon tank. As an option, you can Google the VIN and get the window sticker.

The response given by an F150 user.

Ford Offers 36-Gallon Fuel Tank On F-150 EcoBoost 4×4

Using the all-new standard 36-gallon fuel tank gives the fuel-efficient and powerful 2012 Ford F-150 EcoBoost pick what it needs to drive almost the whole of California — which is from Oregon to Mexico — on just one tank of gas. As a response to the demand of customers, the F-150 EcoBoost currently comes with a driving range of 756 miles between fill-ups. You see that long-distance range of highway cruising? It’s designed in such a way that it saves F-150 drivers time. How does it do this? It does this by depreciating stops for fuel.

Related Questions:

Here’s what the Ford Truck Group Marketing Manager, Doug Scott, has to say: “we know the majority of our customers use their F-150s daily for work or play. It’s an essential tool that enhances their productivity.” He further went on to say, “reducing downtime for fuel stops can help them do their jobs more effectively or get more out of their leisure time.”

There’s a version of the F-150, the 2012 F-150 EcoBoost 4×4 for example, that has the potential, giving drivers the ability to drive non-stop from Atlanta to Detroit or from Houston to El Paso on just one tank of gas. With up to 355 miles to spare, it can take you from Sierra, Calif., to Ram Lake, Ore.. For the 2012 F-150 EcoBoost to go from Silverado, Calif., to Tundra, Texas, at a complete distance of 1,496 miles — you’d have to fill-up just once along the way.

23 To 36 Gallon Tank Swap

A lot of persons out there enquire about the procedures involved in swapping 23-gallon tank to 36-gallon tank — but only a few can actually carry out those procedures. For the purpose of helping those who haven’t done this before, and need a step-by-step guide on how to successfully run the swap, we have written for you a working process.

This is the same process some persons have used, and it helped them immensely.

Parts List:

All the bed/cab configurations come with fuel tanks that are interchangeable — excluding the 122″ wheelbase truck. As for the others, you can simply make use of any tank or fuel pump from any other truck. There’s just one exception, which is just the 5.0L fuel pump. It comes with several part numbers, but according to work we’ve heard, “it still works.” We are not sure of the reason behind the difference in that pump.

One thing you’d need to do is to sort for new pump assembly — because the sending unit of the fuel level is quite different for 23 and 36-gallon tanks. Technically, you can choose to try swapping the various sending units, but getting a new pump is much easier. Both tanks look very much similar. If you’re in search of something you can use to determine their difference, the 36-gallon tank is 74″ long, and the 23-gallon tank is about 62″ long.

  • 36 Gal Fuel Tank: KL3Z-9002-C
  • 36 Gal Fuel Pump: FL3Z-9H307-N

If the tank you have in your possession doesn’t have a heat shield, it’s necessary you get one as well.

  • 36 Gal Tank Heat Shield: FL3Z-9A032-D

All the other parts involved, parts such as fuel pump gasket, fuel pump lock ring, fuel lines, tank straps, etc., can be reused.

Removing the old tank:

Among all the steps, the one regarded as the “most time-consuming step” is the removal of the old tank. For a start, ensure that the tank is empty, then get a floor jack and place it under the tank in order to lift the weight off of an area called the tank straps. Each of the straps comes with one 15mm bolt. It’s recommended that you make use of an impact gun for this purpose. Once you get done with unbolting the straps, you’ll see them hang loose. Now, you’ll have to remove the other end from a slot in the subframe — and to achieve that, all you need do is to twist them.

More, after you’ve done all that, it’s time to lower the floor jack. While doing that, ensure you apply care. It’s necessary that you make sure that the front of the tank is brought down a few inches. You would find two quick-connect fuel lines located at the very front of the fuel tank — go ahead and disconnect both. Out of the gas will come a few ounces of gas, so be prepared with something in which you’d be ready to catch it. You can decide to leave the fuel lines readily connected to the white connectors of the tank. If removing them from the tank is preferable for you, you can opt for that option.

Having the tank’s rear end still suspended, continue the process of lowering the tank to the ground. It will definitely be held to an UP position by several electrical connectors and fuel lines. It’s time to locate the rear of the fuel tank — when you get there, disconnect the various electrical connectors and fuel lines. There are 2 electric connectors and up to 3 fuel line connectors. A good number of these connectors come with a two-step release where it’d be required of you to unlock a safety lock, after which you press the release clips.

In addition, have it in mind that the several fuel line connectors are a bit fragile, so try to be careful when using them — so you don’t break them. This is, to a large extent, the most stressful process because the access you have to the tank’s top is very poor. As for the filler hose, preserve it for the last — because it’s quite strong to withstand the weight of a mostly empty tank, unlike the fuel connectors and electrical connectors. Looking at the filler neck, it’s held on with the help of a small hose clamp, 8mm. It’s a lot easier to take it off at the tank, but another way you can remove it is by taking it off from under the rear wheel well.

Having the filler hose disconnected will cause the tank to drop freely. Make sure you have, ready, a floor jack so lowering it slowly would be an easy task.

Congratulations! You’ve wrapped up the hard part.

Preparing the tank:

Firstly, ensure that the brand new tank is clean and also dry inside. If someone has used it before, it may contain rainwater. Make sure all the water inside is taken out. If installing a pump is what you desire to do, it’s really not a herculean task. Take a look right inside the tank and what you’ll see is a raised semi-circle. This ensures that the pump is firmly held in the tank. Right inside the tank, you’d find a quick-connect hose — this hose goes onto a certain connector on the bottom of the pump lid pointing down. There’s a space between the tank and pump, take the green gasket and place it in between them.

Furthermore, it’s the point where you have to insert the pump into the tank, almost where the semi-circle is located, then — on the lid — line up the larger plastic tab, having the “locator” word on the fuel tank. Then, ensure that the thing called the locking ring is in place. It comes with a couple of grooves right on the outside in which you’d have to place a huge flathead screwdriver. Afterward, you make use of a rubber mallet to strike.

Now, the very first few won’t give any difficulty, but as you continue, it’ll take some hard hits to fully lock. If you’re among those reusing fuel lines, make sure they’re fully removed from the old tank — you can carry out the removal by prying them from the white hold-down connectors. Then, go ahead and carry out the installation process on the new tank. Pick up any amount of fuel line connectors and connect them to the fuel pump while it is still out of the truck. You can use as many fuel line connectors as your choose.

Installing the new tank:

A way we can define this is, it’s the reverse of removal. Take the new tank and raise it up, and start using the filler neck. Then, the neck thing to do would be to connect the electrical connectors alongside any other fuel connections you failed to hook up to the pump. Then, make use of a tank to lift the tank the rest of the way. Afterward, connect the two fittings at the tank’s front to the rest of the fuel system. At this point, it’s time to pick the fuel tank straps and reinstall them. After you’ve reinstalled them, ensure that the bolts are tightened down with an impact.

Preparing the truck:

Immediately it’s installed, get some fuel and pour it into the new tank. Two gallons were put by an individual and that really was plenty. Locate the key and circle it a couple of times in a bid to get the fuel pump primed — then you can start it up. Some would hesitate for a moment right after running for several seconds, but fortunately, it’d pick up again. The fuel gauge in your vehicle will read error-free, but as for the DTE, it’ll be wrong until you go through the stress of reprogramming the computer with Forscan.

How Do I Know If My F150 Has A 36 Gallon Tank – Conclusion

As a recap of the response we gave to the question — How Do I Know If My F150 Has A 36 Gallon Tank? — we stated:

Crawl right underneath it, and compare the tank sizes. If there’s a significant amount of tank forward of the banding that holds it on, it is a 36-gallon tank. As an option, you can Google the VIN and get the window sticker.

Thanks for reading.

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